9-10-99
Use a knitting needle measuring guide to determine the size of unmarked
crochet hooks.
Barb in WNY
9-11-99
Wash your crochet hooks every so often in dishwashing detergent. This
eliminates the built-up oils from your hands, making the hooks slide through
the yarn easier.
Barb in WNY
9-12-99
When working with light colored yarn, use a dark colored hook. For dark
colored yarn, use a light colored hook.
Barb in WNY
9-13-99
Since different yarn fibers work better with different hook finishes, have
several sets of hooks on hand and use the hooks that glide most easily
through the yarn you have
Chosen.
Barb in WNY
9-14-99
The hook size you use to get the gauge is unimportant; getting gauge is what
is important.
Barb in WNY
9-15-99
Rub the point of your crochet hooks over waxed paper periodically to clean
and smooth the tip.
Barb in WNY
9-16-99
Different colors of yarn within the same brand can have different textures
due to the dye. If using multiple colors, work a swatch with each color. If
one color works up differently, use a larger or smaller hook for that color
only.
Barb in WNY
9-17-99
Make gauge swatches at least 4" square in order to get an accurate
measurement.
Barb in WNY
9-18-99
Periodically check your gauge as you crochet an item to make sure it is the
same. If you have relaxed as you became familiar with the pattern, change to
a size smaller hook. If for some reason you are tense and working more
tightly than usual, go up a size.
Barb in WNY
9-19-99
Use a see-through plastic ruler for more accuracy when measuring stitches and
rows to check your gauge.
Barb in WNY
9-20-99
Making sure your gauge is correct will help insure that you don't run out of
yarn. On large items, a gauge that is even slightly larger that it is
supposed to be can cause you to use several ounces more yarn; another reason
to always buy extra yarn.
Barb in WNY
9-21-99
Always make a gauge swatch for projects where size is important. A
difference of less than one half stitch per inch can make more than two
inches difference in the finished size of a 20" wide project.
Barb in WNY
9/22/99
Make your own gauge swatch library for quick reference in determining which
size hook you'll need. Crochet a 4" square in single crochet, then one in
double crochet, using a different hook for each but the same type yarn.
Label each swatch with the hook size and gauge, then staple to notebook paper
and file in a three ring binder. Do this for worsted, sport and baby weight
yarns and you'll never have to guess which hook to choose.
(Ladies, I personally think this is too much work. But for you really
organized gals out there, maybe the hint will come in handy.)
Barb in WNY
9/23/99
Before substituting one yarn for another, make sure you can achieve the
required gauge.
Barb Hinter
9/24/99
For best results, use the same brand of yarn throughout a project.
Barb Hinter
9/25/99
Dark colored yarns can be thicker due to the heavier dye, so purchase a
little extra for safety's sake.
(another reason to add to your stash -- is anyone keeping track of all these
stash-increasing hints?)
Barb Hinter
9/26/99
Use home decorating magazines and catalogs to help in determining color
schemes for afghans and other home decorating items.
Barb Hinter
9/27/99
Even "no dye lot" yarns can very slightly in color. Check closely when
buying large amounts.
Barb Hinter
9/28/99
If you cannot buy enough of one dye lot for an entire project or if you run
out and can't match it, use the new dye lot for areas such as borders or when
assembling.
Barb Hinter
Posted 9/29/99
Always check dye lot numbers when purchasing yarn, and purchase the full
amount needed plus at least one extra skein.
(Now we all know how hard THAT is to do. LOL)
Barb Hinter
Posted 9/30/99
So you will have a record of the brand and color, when rewinding leftover
yarn, use the label as a bobbin. Fold the label several times, then wrap the
yarn around it, leaving at least one end of the label exposed. Slip the
label out when ready to use.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/1/99
It takes about 50 yards of worsted weight yarn to equal one ounce.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/2/99
To convert grams to ounces and vice versa, remember 100 grams equals about 3
1/2 ounces. Multiply the number of grams by .035 to get the number of ounces
you will need. To convert ounces to grams, divide the number of ounces by
.035 to find the number of grams needed.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/3/99
All yarns are not created equal. If a pattern specifies the brand to use,
try to purchase that brand. If it cannot be located, make a swatch of the
yarn you wish to substitute to make sure it will work before purchasing the
entire amount.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/4/99
To avoid "splotchy" colors, if you suspect the yarn you are about to purchase
may have been on the shelf for some time, look at the portion of the skein
that has been covered by the label for tell-tale signs of discoloration.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/5/99
Place colored stickers inside the cardboard tube of your crochet thread to
designate the size (i.e. red for 10, green for 20, etc.).
(Personally, I think it would be much easier to just stick a piece of white
paper in the tube and write the size on it. Then you don't have to remember
what color is for which size.)
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/6/99
Free-standing paper towel holders work well for holding balls of thread.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/7/99
If you need only a small amount of crochet thread, embroidery floss is an
excellent substitute. Use six strands for size 5, four strands for size 10,
two for size 20 and one for size 30 or 40.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/8/99
To keep your starting chain from being too tight, make it with a hook that is
one size larger than what will be used for the remainder of the item.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/9/99
If your turning chains are too tight or too loose, compensate by adding or
deleting one chain.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/10/99
To avoid an unsightly hole in the center of a doily or other round project,
wrap the thread or yarn around your finger twice, leaving a long tail; work
the stitches of the first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close
up the center.
Barb Hinter
(Could someone maybe explain this better. I can't figure it out.)
Posted 10/11/99
Always use a slip knot at the beginning of a starting chain to keep the end
from coming undone.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/12/99
Use one size smaller hook when working the first row or round of edgings on
afghans and such to keep them from ruffling.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/13/99
When substituting colors, lightly pencil in the new color names above the old
ones to save time while stitching.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/18/99
For a smoother edge when working into the ends of rows, work through the
strands of the stitch, not around the post.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/19/99
Read through a new pattern before you begin and mark critical areas such as
color changes, fasten offs, and special stitches with a highlighter pen.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/20/99
Before beginning an intricate thread pattern worked in motifs, make a sample
motif using worsted weight yarn and an F or G hook to familiarize yourself
with the pattern.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/21/99
When working back into the starting chain, insert your hook under the top two
loops for a smoother, stronger edge.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/22/99
To avoid stray "tails" from appearing on your finished project, never work
over yarn ends. Leave a six to eight inch length when beginning and ending,
then weave it through the back side of the stitches to secure.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/23/99
When using two or more strands of yarn held together, weave ends in
separately to avoid and unsightly bump.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/24/99
When joining motifs of a lighter color to those of a darker one, use the
lighter color for seams.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/25/99
For straight, even fringe, cut uniform lengths more quickly by using a stiff
piece of cardboard. Wrap yarn abound the cardboard, then cut at one end to
form fringe.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/26/99
To trim the bottom edge of fringe after it is completed, use a rotary fabric
cutter and a plastic or metal straight edge.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/27/99
When cutting yarn for fringe, use the outer portion of the skein so the yarn
will not be crinkly. If you have to use crinkly yarn, unwind it from the
skein and loosely wrap around a large piece of cardboard. Steam the wraps
lightly to help remove the crinkles. Allow to dry before cutting into
lengths needed.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/28/99
When fastening off at the end of a piece that will be sewn to another, leave
a long enough end to do the sewing. This saves on the number of ends to be
worked in later.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/29/99
Weave ends in as you go to avoid the tedious task of doing them all last.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/30/99
Use a blow dryer to dissolve spider webs of hot glue strings from finished
crochet projects.
Barb Hinter
Posted 10/31/99
If you are working on a project that has numerous pieces, such as an afghan,
that need to be the same size, be sure to measure the pieces you are
currently making to previously made pieces to keep them the same size.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/01/99
If using a yarn that is fuzzy or nubby, try to purchase a skein of smooth
yarn in the same color to use when assembling.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/02/99
"Sewing" with yarn damages the fibers, so be sure to use only 18" lengths to
insure a longer life on your seams.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/03/99
Keep a safety pin handy to clip into the last stitch when you must put your
stitching down. If busy little hands find your work, it won't be unravelled.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/04/99
For intricate patterns, count across the previous row or round and mark the beginning of each repeat for the next row before you work it. If you get interrupted, it won't be hard to pick up right where you left off.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/05/99
The little clips that hold buttons to display cards make super stitch markers.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/06/99
Use a "handy adder", like the kind for adding your groceries, to count rows and rounds. One click for each row or round you complete and you'll never lose your place.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/07/99
When working from a stitch graph or chart, you may find it easier to convert
the information to written directions first.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/08/99
Use a knitting counter (the kind you place on the end of the needle;
available at larger craft and discount store) to keep track of rows and
rounds.
Barb Hinter
(Okay, okay, I'm sorry that the 4-letter "k" word appears in this hint, but I
am only the messanger. Please don't get mad at me!!!)
Posted 11/09/99
Use an air-soluble (invisible) marking pen to keep your place on your
pattern. Within 24 hours the marks will be gone.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/10/99
Invest the time it takes to double-check stitch counts when given in pattern
instructions. The frustration it may save later will be well worth it.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/11/99
Use a plastic notebook sheet protector to hold your pattern, then, with a
grease pencil, mark off each row/round as you work. The pencil wipes right
of when you're through.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/12/99
For long starting chains, place a marker every twenty chains or so.
Recounting will be much easier if you happen to lose your place.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/13/99
For projects with lots of pieces, bundle motifs or blocks into stacks of five
or ten for at-a-glance counting.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/14/99
Use end-opening eyeglass cases to hold hooks while traveling.
(This is one of my favorite hints, but I also use the ones that snap closed
for my hooks.)
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/15/99
Place the yarn or thread you are working with in a plastic zip-lock bag to
protect it from lint, dust, animal hair and other contaminates. Seal the bag
to about 1" from the end. If the bag tends to come open, secure it with a
paper clip or similar object.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/16/99
If you keep your yarn in a plastic bag while stitching and static electricity
becomes a problem, add a fabric softening sheet to the bag.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/17/99
Reusable plastic drinking cups that have snap-on lids with straw holes make
great holders for smaller balls or skeins of yarn or thread.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/18/99
Eyeglass cases (the kind that snap shut) make great "tool chests". Use them
to hold needles, threaders, small scissors, tape measures and a few crochet
hooks.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/19/99
For easy storage in a closet, place afghans in the heavy plastic zippered
bags that new bedspreads and comforters come in or roll them up and place
them inside pillowcases.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/20/99
Fold your pattern book or magazine open to the page you need, then slip
inside a plastic zip-lock bag and seal. Instant pattern holder!!
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/21/99
As extra insurance, always photo copy the pattern you are working on and take
the copy with you when traveling. Keep the original at home. As long as the
copy is kept strictly for your own use, you are not violating copyright codes.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/22/99
Stuff small items with yarn scraps of the same color.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/23/99
Never use a sharp pointed needle to sew crocheted pieces together. The point
will damage the yarn, causing it to wear sooner.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/24/99
If you are having difficulty with a set of pattern instructions, write them
out on paper. This may help to eliminate the confusion.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/26/99
Keep a notepad and pencil handy when crocheting to write notes
about the pattern that you want to remember in the future. Also, you may
think better while crocheting and other important items may crop up that you
want to remember.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/27/99
If you run across a "bad" spot in the yarn you are using, cut it out.
Working it into your project will only cause problems later.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/28/99
Remember, wet yarn or thread is fragile; handle with care. After laundering
crocheted items, carefully lift out of the water and place on a thick,
absorbent towel. Roll or fold in the towel to remove excess water before
transferring to the blocking surface..
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/29/99
Save damaged pieces of yarn and separate the plys to use for embroidery when
thinner yarn is needed.
Barb Hinter
Posted 11/30/99
Work assembly-line style when making projects with multiple pieces.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/1/99
If a doily or tablecloth becomes stained, tea dying will add a rich antique
look and help cover the stain.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/2/99
Never hang a crocheted item. Store flat with as few folds as possible.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/3/99
Add new skeins at the beginning of a row or round to prevent unsightly lumps
in the work.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/4/99
If you'd like to add a decorative edging to a fabric item, first, stitch
along the edge of the hemline with machine zig-zag stitching. Next, run a
piece of the yarn or thread you will be using under the machine stitching,
then use that thread as your starting "chain".
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/5/99
Attach a metal eyelet (available at fabric stores) to the edge of your
crochet bag. Thread the end of your yarn through the eyelet before starting
your project and your yarn will stay securely in the bag.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/6/99
When making an item that says to use cardboard inserts, use plastic canvas
instead. It is much more durable (and you can also wash it).
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/7/99
Small plastic wastebaskets make great yarn holders. Just stand pull skeins
on end and crochet away.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/8/99
Use a seamstress' hem clip (similar to an oversized paper clip) to hold your
pattern open to the right page.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/9/99
Roll yarn into a ball and place inside a large coffee can then feed the end
through a small hole in the plastic lid.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/12/99
To help ease eye strain, when working with light colored yarn or thread,
place a dark cloth over your lap. If working with dark yarn or thread, use a
light colored cloth.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/13/99
Keep a slightly smaller hook than the one you are using handy for pulling
yarn or thread through tight spots like turning chains.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/14/99
For pattern markers that won't hurt the paper, cut two 2"-4" pieces of
magnetic strip with the paper backing still intact. Place one on one side of
the page and one on the other, then slide down the page as you work.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/15/99
Use a folding music or typing stand to hold your patterns.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/16/99
Sprinkle a small amount of baby powder on your hands to crochet more smoothly
on hot or humid days.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/17/99
When using large balls of crochet thread, place the ball over a standing
paper towel holder.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/18/99
When changing colors in the middle of a row, always drop the current color to
the wrong side of the work; then pick up the next color from under the first
to prevent a hole. Leave an end of about 6" on each color to work in later.
Knot loosely if needed to hold in place, but untie the knot before hiding the
ends.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/19/99
Make your own yarn bobbins using a 2" x 4" piece of heavy cardboard with a
small slit cut in one end.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/20/99
If you must change colors or add a new skein in the middle of a row or round,
leave an end of at least four inches; later separate the plys of the strand
and weave each individually for almost invisible results.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/21/99
Plastic trays designed to use when wetting wall paper are perfect for holding
all those balls of yarn when working from color change graphs.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/22/99
Make projects that have black and white color change charts easier to read.
Use colored pencils or felt tip pens to colorize the chart before you begin.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/23/99
For projects like doilies and runners that need only a light starching, spray
starch or sizing works well. Place the crocheted piece on an ironing or
blocking board that has been covered with wax paper or plastic wrap. Then,
beginning at the center and working out, spray a small area, stretch
slightly, pulling into shape and pin. Always use rust-proof pins, and keep a
tea towel handy to blot excess starch. Apply one final coat of spray when
completely pinned. Allow to dry thoroughly before removing from board.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/24/99
Although there are numerous commercial stiffeners available today, one that
works great is the old-fashioned sugar starch. Mix one part water with two
parts sugar, boil until mixture turns to a thin syrup. Immerse the crocheted
piece until saturated, carefully squeeze out the excess, then block and allow
to dry.
There will be no hint tomorrow, so, everyone, enjoy your holiday and I will
be back on the 26th.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/26/99
Steam pressing does wonders for the appearance of crocheted items like doll
clothes made from thread. If a form is used with the dress, like the kind
for bed dolls, while the dress is on the form, steam lightly with a hand-held
iron or steamer, smoothing into place by hand. Apply spray starch to the
ruffles and trim, shape and let dry. If a form is not used, roll a hand or
bath towel firmly and place the dress over the towel.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/27/99
To block an afghan or similar project, dampen it and spread it out on a
sheet-covered carpeted floor or bed. Using large rust-proof T-pins, pin into
shape, then steam as stated in previous hint, shaping as needed. Take care
not to stretch the fibers. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.
Barb Hinter
Posted 12/28/99
To steam block an afghan or other yarn project, set the iron on the highest
steam setting. Holding the iron just above the yarn (never touch it!), allow
the steam to penetrate the fibers, then pat into shape by hand. This works
great for taming kinky fringe, too.
Barb Hinter
Posted 8/12/2000
This hint came to me from Phyllis in PA she said credit should go to her deceased Mother Della V. of PA. When tatting or thread crocheting, she'd slip
the strand through a bees wax ball she used for her sewing thread hand
stitching. It allows for easier sliding.
___________________________________________________________
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Last updated on Tuesday, February 13, 2007